July 24, 2008

Pulp

Lovin' Beach Livin'

Staff writer Stephen Bramucci can't get enough of Crystal Cove and Salt Creek beaches.

Lovin' Beach Livin'
Photo by Stephen Bramucci
I spent Christmas and the New Year in Germany’s Upper Bavaria and as a result, the closest that I’ve been to water for nearly a month is in solid form, sledding down the snow-covered paths that trace the Bavarian Alps. Sledding in these parts means adrenaline, bruises and the constant possibility of flying off the mountain into oblivion. The fact that locals consider it a family activity reveals just how hearty these mountain people are.

Still, as much fun as I’ve had sledding (with purple shins to prove it), a month away from the ocean has left me a touch homesick. The best way I’ve found to cope is to turn my column this month into a love letter to two of my favorite spots in Orange County.
Crystal Cove State Park: Just the idea, the sheer notion that a place like Crystal Cove exists in the fifth most populous county in the United States, is mind blowing to me. In summer, Crystal Cove offers one of Orange County’s least overrun beaches, which any local will tell you is much appreciated when the crowds descend. Even in the middle of July, an intrepid soul can have a wide swath of sand all to themselves by walking 10 minutes from the main access points. But go to Crystal Cove outside of the Memorial Day to Labor Day peak season and you’ll get a slice of perfection the second your toes hit the sand. Last September, I spent an 85-degree Saturday at Crystal Cove and saw the hazy outlines of maybe four people. Maybe. What I saw instead were a passing pod of dolphins, a harbor seal, the best sunset in recent memory, and an incredible dive bombing display by the local pelicans. Frame this all with the backdrop of sheer sandstone cliffs and it’s no wonder that Crystal Cove is a favorite spot for local artists. But… um… parking costs $10 and you have to walk down a long staircase to get to the beach – so actually it’s not that great at all, not worth the drive – and, in fact, just forget I said anything.

Salt Creek State Beach: Okay, in terms of crowds, Salt Creek is Crystal Cove’s polar opposite. And sometimes there are some pretty serious egos out in the water. But the fact remains that Salt Creek is amazing. The beach hosts three separate surf breaks, and catches a piece of most swells that come by, so that by some loaves-and-fishes phenomenon, there are usually enough waves to go around.

The surfing isn’t all there is to love about Salt Creek either. The views from the nearby bluffs (which make up the border of the Ritz-Carlton but are open to the public) offer a chance to glimpse the grey whale migration or look out over Catalina and the coastline. And if my parking money is paying for the always lush lawns, the clean bathrooms and the perfectly maintained picnic areas, then it’s worth every penny. Although most of my trips to Salt Creek are just for the surf and only last a few hours, the truth is that this is one of the county’s best places to spend an entire day – sunrise to sunset.

And these, friends, are the thoughts that sustain me when the German winter temperatures dip below freezing – which is where they seem to be most of the time… Like right now for instance. See you at the beach.

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