Rediscovering Playa

In the midst of a small fishing village on Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, The Tides offers a holistic oasis in a bustling resort town.

photos by Geoffrey Ragatz

Ten years ago, in an attempt to run and hide from the raving Spring Break crowd that had descended upon Cancun, I found myself following a lead south to the small fishing village of Playa: “Go south,” I was told. “It’s what the Mexican Riviera wants to be!”

I can vividly remember making the trek and coming upon the small fishing town that was no longer than a few blocks in either direction, a layover for traveling backpackers in the know and a select group of globe-trotting Europeans.

But what I remember most is just how peaceful it really was. The organic beach scene, its fishermen running out into the Caribbean Sea, quaint boutiques fronting the seaboard, small private residences, cafes and bars created an eclectic artisan vibe unlike anything I’d ever experienced in Mexico.

Soon, as with most things too good to be true, Playa – now so eloquently referred to as Playa del Carmen – was “discovered” and with it, its innocence lost. But as I was to find out on my return this past winter, not all has been lost. While its booming tourism industry is growing at a per capita rate of 30% annually, many of the boutique destinations in the area have stuck to the core root of Playa’s intrinsic value and embraced a holistic and luxurious approach to providing an unpretentious getaway second to none.

At the top of that list is The Tides’ flagship property, located three miles north of Playa del Carmen’s city center. Enveloped in six acres of dense native rain forest, The Tides experience begins at check-in, where you’re soon lost beneath the property’s jungle canopy and amongst the winding maze of trails that lead to your own private, eco-conscious hideaway. Complete with its own private plunge pool, each palapa-roofed villa’s motif plays off the simplicity of the Mayan aesthetic.

I was immediately impressed with The Tides’ casual approach to providing for all things elegant; it felt as if I was at a good friend’s house as opposed to being at a world-class resort. Getting lost in your fantasy world of absolute do-nothingness is a personal option that is fully supported by a finely schooled, hands-on staff.

More lovers getaway than faddish hotspot, I found The Tides’ unique positioning just north of town provides for a manageable experience akin to that of my first trip years ago – there is no cross traffic passing along the powdered sugar beachfront, and with a limited number of guests, peace and quiet is the option of choice. Being from the west coast, welcoming the sunrise from the Caribbean’s eastern horizon is a sight to remember, setting the course for the day.

The Mayan Spa at The Tides offers an eclectic array of holistic treatments. Centrally located within the resort, the spa takes in the natural ambiance of the natural forest setting with its holistic remedies, personalized menus and jungle setting. Equally as impressive is The Tides’ vibrant, health-oriented cuisine fusing the colors and flavors of Mexico with bold Mediterranean influence. Be it personalized meals served in the privacy of your own villa or a Mayan cooking class set amongst the jungle’s palm-fringed backdrop, each one-of-a-kind experience is certain to be one you’ll not soon forget.

That said, if you’re the type who can sit and relax for only so long, not to worry. Be it a luxe shopping experience, world-class dining or an all-night Euro-rave, Playa’s 24-7 cadence is always ready to be tapped, its modern-yet-classic international vibe transforming the downtown center into an eclectic experience of trendy discos, rooftop lounges and all-night beach parties.

For those who aren’t into partying until sunrise, there are a host of activities to choose from. The Yucatan, home to the ancient Mayan civilization, plays host to some of the most impressive archeological ruins in the world, and day trips to Chichen Itza and Tulum are prerequisite must-sees. Still not impressed? Then I might suggest a deep-water dive into the center of the earth… a scuba-diving excursion deep within ancient, sub-terranean sinkholes known as cinotes open one’s eyes to yet another mystery of the Yucatan.

Just as enticing were the 1,000-thread-count sheets and purely decadent Mayan crepuscular massage back at The Tides. After a full day and night of revelry, the peace and quiet my private villa afforded was fully appreciated.

Somehow, with the help of small getaways like The Tides, Playa del Carmen has maintained the same unassuming grace that so captivated me some 15 years ago. Yes, the crowds and the development and the stress levels are higher, but beneath the surface, if you’re willing to listen, the song remains the same.

For more information, call (866) 332-1672 (US and Canada) or 011/52-984-877-3000, or log onto www.tidesrivieramaya.com

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