After a historically rainy winter, the canyons and open spaces of coastal Orange County look almost unrecognizable. Dull-colored desert sage has been swallowed by bigger, thirstier, more domineering plants; brilliant bursts of emerald trickle across the sandstone ridges of Laguna and Aliso canyons. Right now, even in this very populous county, there is a feeling of overgrown wildness.
As spring delivers us blooms and blossoms, we need food that’s just as unruly as our environment. Big, brawling plates that might be found in the saloons of the Wild West, plus a few sophisticated touches. We’re talking about dishes like the pork porterhouse served at Harvest – the long-awaited restaurant at The Ranch at Laguna Beach (nestled in Aliso Canyon). Here, chef Charles Imbelli riffs on classic flavor combinations and amps them up with clever additions.
The most notable touch is Imbelli’s choice of pickled cranberries – turning the sour, chalky pebbles into tender morsels, just tart enough to razor through the richness of the pork. The choice feels refined, something the young cook might’ve picked up from his ex-boss Marcus Samuelsson back in New York City. It’s sophisticated frontier food.
The rest of the plate is rowdy, with a rutabaga mash below the porterhouse and plenty of char on top of it. The grilled Treviso radicchio is bright and unruly, just like the canyon setting. This dish is exactly what we should celebrate this spring: a little wild and bursting with energy.
Pickled Cranberries
-2 bags fresh cranberries
-1 quart apple cider vinegar
-1 pint water
-Juice and peel of 2 oranges
-1 Tbs. Aleppo chili flakes
-1 Tbs. whole mustard seed
-2 jalapenos split, lengthwise
-1 cup salt
-1½ cups brown sugar
-½ cup honey
Combine the above ingredients except the cranberries.
Bring to a boil, then simmer 5 minutes before adding the two bags of cranberries. Continue to simmer 3-5 minutes before removing to a container and placing in the refrigerator to cool.
Harvest at The Ranch at Laguna Beach
31106 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, 949.499.2271 :: theranchlb.com
