Let’s be honest, brunch is just breakfast for people who fancy sleeping in. There’s no shame in that. Spending an extra few hours in bed on a Sunday is a respectable goal. But if you go by the portmanteau that gives the meal its name, a real brunch ought to be hearty enough to power you through the long afternoon, while still paying homage to a morning meal’s twin hallmarks: cured meat and eggs.
By this classification, the pastrami hash served at The Loft at Montage Laguna Beach makes the perfect brunch order. It’s reminiscent of an Austrian gröstl – potatoes, cured meat, fried eggs and a few chives, all prepped in one big skillet – but chef Michael Campbell has made the dish his own through a combination of technique and creativity. The pastrami is a fun nod to the perfect Sunday sandwich, and it’s balanced by the acidity of pickled green tomatoes.
The real highlight of the dish is a horseradish crème fraîche. It’s not wildly complicated, but good food doesn’t have to be. The flavor packs a punch, adding just the right level of burn. Best of all, it keeps the dish feeling far lighter than a giant cast iron pan loaded with cured meat, roasted potatoes and fried eggs has any business being.
This is a real brunch dish – for those who want a little bit of breakfast, a little bit of lunch and a whole load of flavor.
Chef Michael Campbell’s Horseradish Crème Fraîche
1 pint crème fraîche
1 Tbs. apple cider vinegar
2 Tbs. prepared horseradish
2 tsp. salt
1 small shallot, minced
Whip cream to stiff peaks then fold in vinegar, horseradish, shallot and salt.
The Loft at Montage Laguna Beach, 30801 South Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, 949.715.6080 :: MontageHotels.com/LagunaBeach/Dining/Loft
