From the best places to experiment with the hottest tequilas to discovering Orange County's best under-the-radar restaurants, Coast has got you covered when it comes to the latest in food.
From the best places to experiment with the hottest tequilas to discovering Orange Countyâs best under-the-radar restaurants, Coast has got you covered when it comes to the latest in food.
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Photo By Ralph Palumbo Rachel Klemek watches as students put the final touches on their Danishes before popping them in the oven. |
Just when you thought you were getting up to speed on the organic cocktail craze, a resurgence in premium tequilas took over the bar scene before you ordered your first all-natural pomtini. And then, when you were certain that haute cuisine had made its long-awaited comeback, gussied-up versions of comfort foods like mac ‘n’ cheese and deviled eggs were suddenly all anyone could talk about. In an industry where food trends come and go seemingly overnight, it can be nearly impossible to know what the “it” food of the moment is – and more importantly, where to get it. That’s where Coast comes in. From the best places to experiment with the hottest tequilas to shopping with executive chefs to learning the delicate art of baking a perfectly flaky croissant and discovering Orange County’s best under-the-radar restaurants, we’ve got you covered when it comes to the latest in food.
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Photo By Steve K. Zylius/The Orange County Register |
¡TEQUILA!
Time was when tequila appealed only to alcohol-guzzling college students and “Fear Factor” types daring one another to swallow the worm. It took a while to live that image down, but nowadays, tequila is on the ups, garnering respect in the unlikeliest of places: fine dining. Few knew back in those tequila-shot days that the real stuff wasn’t bought only in corner liquor stores for late night refueling with a slice of lime and a sprinkling of salt. Authentic tequila, in fact, is one of the last true artisanal spirits on the market, the pride of Mexico and its national drink. Traditional tequilas made from the agave plant hail mostly from the highlands of Jalisco, a state deep in the heart of Mexico. Its resurgence as a refined spirit worthy of critical attention – the likes of which is generally reserved for stodgier distillates like Cognac and brandy – has found fertile ground in Orange County, where Mexican restaurants thrive and increasingly discerning customers are open to tackling a new premium curiosity, especially one that can cost upwards of $100 per shot.
At Tortilla Jo’s in Anaheim, over 100 tequilas are lined up behind the bar – everything from your basic $8 shot to a variety of reposados, añejos and blancos that can be sampled as part of the restaurant’s “sabor” tasting lineup. “Tequilas have made a comeback,” says Frank Moreno, the restaurant’s general manager. “But now people are more knowledgeable. They know what they want and aren’t afraid to go looking for it.”
Tortilla Jo’s, 1510 Disneyland Dr., Anaheim, (714) 535-5000; www.patinagroup.com/tortillajos
| The Best Tequila Watering Holes El Matador 1768 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, (949) 645-0324. With a loyal following and a history stretching back to 1966, El Matador also attracts with its extensive tequila collection, with well over 150 selections. El Callejon 480 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, (949) 715-5999; www.el-callejon.com. Famous for its traditional Mexican food and fresh margaritas, El Callejon also impresses with its breadth of tequilas – over 750 are in its collection. Javier’s 7832 E. Coast Hwy., Newport Beach, (949) 494-1239; 45 Fortune Dr., Irvine, (949) 872-2101; www.javiers-cantina.com. Breathtaking views at Javier’s new location at Crystal Cove are only part of the appeal. While they may not have the largest overall tequila selection around, they do have the most premium tequilas to choose from with over 80 in their arsenal. |
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James Boyce makes sure his farmer’s market produce is up to par for his (and your) creations back at Studio. |
DO IT YOURSELF
Dining out is certainly one of the pleasures of life – the ambiance, the service, the complex dishes you’d never make at home, and the fact that you don’t have to clean up after yourself are but a few of the perks. But let’s face it: There’s really nothing like a home-cooked meal by someone who knows what they’re doing. And yes, that person can be you, especially after attending a cooking class or two.
Rachel Klemek, owner of Blackmarket Bakery in Irvine, however, doesn’t teach cooking classes; she teaches baking classes, a distinction she makes clear right away. Tackling all variety of baked goods from breads and cookies to tarts and cakes, Klemek often watches an amazing transformation take place within a couple of hours: Students who insist they can’t boil an egg are whipping up savory focaccia pockets à la Julia Child in a matter of hours. “I learned a lot of things the hard way, by messing up,” says Klemek, who is a graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Napa Valley. “So I can give people reasons for why they’re supposed to do things a certain way. Books can’t give you those tips.”
The bottom line: If you’ve ever wondered why your baked confections look (and probably taste) nothing like the ones in the cookbook you’re trying to imitate, a little bit of hands-on training from a pro like Klemek could be just the thing to get your baking hobby off the ground.
Blackmarket Bakery, 17941 Sky Park Circle, Ste. E, (949) 852-4609; www.blackmarketbakery.com. July classes include Ultimate Breakfast Breads (think: blueberry coffee cake, sour cream brioche, yeast-raised doughnuts) and Fruits, Tarts and Desserts (think: pineapple tart tatin; summer peaches and raspberries with sabayon; mixed berry pavlova with mango sauce).
More Ways to Impress Your Friends
Market to Plate
WHERE Montage Laguna Beach, 30801 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, (949) 715-6000; www.montagelagunabeach.com
WHEN Friday-Sunday with 14-day advance reservations
HOW MUCH? Begins at $2,000 for two people, and includes one-night ocean view accommodations, custom chef coats and valet parking.
WHAT If you’ve ever wondered what a day in the life of a culinary genius is like, now’s your chance to find out. Spend an entire day with James Boyce, the Montage’s star chef of their highly acclaimed restaurant, Studio, as he takes you through the meal planning process, from the market to the plate. After discussing the day’s events and favorite summer dishes, you’ll accompany Chef Boyce to the farmer’s market to select the finest produce, and then learn how to transform it into a multi-course lunch through a hands-on session in Studio’s kitchen.
Know it All
WHERE Laguna Culinary Arts, 845 Laguna Canyon Rd., Laguna Beach, (949) 494-4006; www.lagunaculinaryarts.com
WHEN Ongoing; visit the Web site for class schedules
HOW MUCH? From $85 for individual classes to $320 for series of advanced courses
WHAT Cooking classes at Laguna Culinary Arts range from the basic (learning to steam vegetables) to the complex (perfecting the art of a light and airy soufflé), with a whole lot in between. July classes include mastering the art of favorite summer preparations like smoked ribs to preparing grilled Asian appetizers like chicken satay with peanut sauce and learning all the summer soups you’d ever want to know – watermelon gazpacho with shrimp skewers is bound to be a crowd favorite.
Faking It Organic To Go Whether it’s sustenance for an all-day meeting, an impromptu need for a few bag lunches or just dinner with the family, Organic To Go has every food base covered and ready for delivery. And it’s healthy. In the mood for organic scrambled eggs with chives? They’ve got it. Need a four-quart kettle of basil chicken chili? Got that too. Or how about shrimp Provençal for dinner? Done. Locations in Costa Mesa and Irvine. Call (800) 304-4550 to place an order or for more information; www.organictogo.com Sapphire Pantry If you love Sapphire Laguna, you’ll love Chef Azmin Ghahreman’s ready-to-go meals available from the adjacent Sapphire Pantry. Although they change daily, here’s an idea of what to expect (we’re drooling just typing this): three meat bolognese spaghetti and baked eggplant with mozzarella in tomato sauce; panioli-glazed salmon, steamed jasmine rice, sugar snap peas and bok choy; and herb-baked chicken breast, creamed spinach, and ricotta tortelloni in pesto. Prices range from $13.95-$19.95. Call (949) 715-9889 or visit www.sapphirellc.com for more information. Island To Go Besides dreading the cramped seats on planes and the security checks that often leave you partially clothed in front of your flying brethren, one more thing passengers have to not look forward to is a flight’s sub-par food. Trade in the tasteless, soggy $8 sandwich for a to-go meal prepared by Chef Bill Bracken at The Island Hotel, and watch as your in-flight buddies turn envious over your niçoise-style seared rare ahi tuna with baby greens, roasted tomatoes, green beans, and aged balsamic. Breakfast selections like homemade granola and yogurt with seasonal berries and desserts like Valrhona Manjari chocolate obsession are also available. And if you’re not hitting the fair skies, consider ordering some of Chef Bracken’s to-go cuisine for an extra fancy picnic or gourmet to-go meal at home. Call (949) 759-0808 to place an order or for more information; www.theislandhotel.com |
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Gabbi Patrick’s authentic, regional take on Mexican cuisine has catapulted her into chef stardom in Orange County. |
UNDISCOVERED SECRETS
It’s not that the usual suspects aren’t good – well-known restaurants are heavily frequented for a reason – but that reason isn’t always because of superior dining. It’s an unfortunate fact of life, but marketing budgets often play as big a role in a restaurant’s popularity as the quality of the food. But word of mouth is also a powerful thing, so we followed a few tips generated from local chatter and found some gems that have managed to fly barely under the radar – until now.
One such locale is Gabbi’s Mexican Kitchen, a bustling colonial-style restaurant specializing in traditional, regional cuisine from the U.S.’s neighbor to the south. But lest you be expecting Ranchero-drenched burritos and taqueria-style enchiladas from executive chef and owner Gabbi Patrick, let us alert you ahead of time: Gabbi’s is the real, real deal, Mexican cuisine that incorporates all the nuances of its country of origin, right down to the plethora of moles available. “Being in California, we tend to think of Tex-Mex and southwest,” says Patrick, “but I wanted to go in and show people the refined Mexican cuisine that’s in Mexico.” Imported artisanal cheeses from Oaxaca and the use of huitlacoche, a prevalent so-called Mexican truffle that grows on the ears of corn, are but a couple examples of the authenticity factor at Gabbi’s. Good old-fashioned word of mouth is the other.
Gabbi’s Mexican Kitchen, 141 S. Glassell St., Orange, (714) 633-3038; www.gabbimex.com
Consider the Secret Now Out On… Blanca a more modern spin on Italian dining, delves straight into a trend hot from the Mediterranean: crudo, meaning “raw.” Taking its cue from sushi, crudo is prepared using very thin slices of the finest quality fish, which is then drizzled with either subtle or pungent oils and sprinkled with rare salts or spices. Big eye tuna with avocado, grapefruit gelée, puffed wild rice, and coriander olive oil stands out with familiar ingredients, but adventurers might like to try the Kusshi oysters with mango mignonette spheres and micro tarragon. 3420 Via Oporto, Newport Beach, (949) 673-0414; www.blancanewport.com |
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Photo By Ed Olen Small plates from Flight Bistro and Social Lounge include kobe-style beef sticks with sweet soy reduction and scallions; and tiger shrimp cocktail with avocado |
SMALL PLATES
Before you roll your eyes and insist that either smaller is not, in fact, better, or point out the fact that small plates aren’t exactly a cutting edge trend, hear us out. Small plates add variety and dimension to a dining experience, and while you may not get stuffed (in fact, that’s the idea), you’ll leave satisfied, happy that you broadened your taste bud horizons and didn’t pack on five pounds in the course of a single meal. Very common throughout Europe (think: Spanish tapas) and standard fare in cities like New York and L.A., small plates are still getting their wings in OC, but a promising bunch of local restaurants have adopted the trend with open arms, putting their signature spins on pint-sized dishes.
One such restaurant is Flight Bistro and Social Lounge in Huntington Beach, a spacious venue ideal for relaxing with a good glass of wine and a few small plates, like Dungeness crab cakes with citrus butter and micro greens or indulgent truffle mac ‘n’ cheese with shaved parmesan. “The portion size is just right,” says Stephen Chu, Flight’s general manager. “And the small plates are pretty basic, designed to showcase the flavors of the individual ingredients.” Pairing small plates with different wines is one of the creative perks, a sort of mix-and-match that allows you to create your own favorite flavor combos or test your taste buds. Order one of the restaurant’s wine flights with your small plates and let your palate be your guide.
Flight Bistro and Social Lounge, 8082 Adams Ave., Huntington Beach, (714) 374-8300; www.flightoc.com
More Places Where Smaller is Better
Izakaya Zero 412 Walnut Ave., Huntington Beach, (714) 960-1278; www.izakayazero.com
The short order Innovative, outside-the-box take on Japan’s traditional watering hole cuisine from Chef Takashi Abe. Outstanding Japanese tavern-style small plates include yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño slices, goji berries and yuzu sauce; and the crab cigar, a deep-fried wrap of crab, shrimp and scallop with spicy mango salsa.
Mesa 725 Baker St., Costa Mesa, (714) 557-6700
The short order Fresh, seasonal ingredients go a long way to make the small plates at Mesa nothing short of inspirational. Go for the cheese-topped gratin of brandade or the hearty farrotto with mushrooms and pecorino. With so many delicious small plates to choose from, you won’t even notice that there wasn’t any entrée.
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Photo By Ralph Palumbo Florent Marneau and his wife, Amelia, took their combined 40 years of restaurant experience and opened Marché Moderne, where they run both the kitchen and the business at this South Coast Plaza establishment. |
CHEF OWNERS
As anyone who owns their own business can attest to, running things is a lot different than working for someone else. And depending on your perspective, venturing out on your own is either a freedom high full of exhilaration and risk, or a nightmare of crushing responsibility, stress and long hours. Judging by the recent trend of chef-owned restaurants in Orange County, it appears as though the culinary-minded are weighing the risks against the intoxicating draw of independence and opting to hang their chef coats in kitchens run, owned and operated by none other than theirs truly.
Their chance seems to be paying off. After working for nearly 20 years under the thumb of various owners, Florent Marneau (formerly of Pascal, Aubergine and Pinot Provence) decided it was time to try his hand at his own restaurant, a reflection of his personal style, tastes and background. What resulted was Marché Moderne, which opened in 2006 at South Coast Plaza, a product of years of hard work by Florent and his wife, Amelia. Looking back, he says Marché Moderne was “always something we worked towards for many years without even knowing it. It’s an evolution of what we’ve been doing for years.”
Many of the skills he acquired as executive chef might have been directly applicable to running his own kitchen, but the responsibility of keeping tabs on an entire restaurant have been an adjustment for Marneau. “We do so much more now,” says Florent. “We worked seven days a week until recently. Now we take days off, but we still work from 9 a.m. until 11 p.m. The restaurant is our third child.” But it’s worth it, he says. He’s been able to design the rustic-meets-modern menu he’s always aspired to, with “strong, passionate cooking and old-fashioned dishes with a contemporary twist.” Ingredients are fresh from the market and change frequently, to whenever inspiration intends.
Marché Moderne, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, (714) 434-7900; www.marchemoderne.net
Who else calls their own shots?
Executive Chef Scott Brandon at The Crow Bar and Kitchen, 2325 E. Coast Hwy., Corona del Mar, (949) 675-0070; www.thecrowbarcdm.com
Executive Chef Azmin Ghahreman at Sapphire Laguna, 1200 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach, (949) 715-9888; www.sapphirellc.com
