Steakhouses are to restaurant reviewers what blockbuster summer movies are to film critics. Big and obvious, they are rarely taken seriously. And the critiques often read as if they were written with a hatchet rather than a computer.
I secretly look forward to visiting steakhouses. Granted, I’m happier when I can just enjoy my steak and not have to scrutinize it, but there is still something comforting about a place where the food isn’t going to be smarter than I am.
So it’s with guilty pleasure that I make reservations at Landmark Steakhouse in Corona del Mar. As I book the table, I can almost taste the martini and smell the beef.
Landmark has opened in the spot formerly occupied by Carmelo’s. The new occupant offers live music most nights of the week, and on the weekend crowds form early and stay late. The staff is friendly, young and attractive.
We’re greeted as soon as we get out of the car – the hostess stand sits steps away from where the valet meets us. The open patio is not crowded before 7 p.m., and neither is the bar, with its leather club chairs, roaring fire and flat-screen televisions. The dining room is also refreshingly vacant. From my vantage point I see well into the restaurant through three dining rooms to a well-stocked wine locker. Candles flicker from sconces throughout the rooms, casting a flattering romantic glow.
Despite the lack of early crowds, it takes our server some time to get to us. Drinks arrive and she doesn’t return for nearly a half-hour to take our dinner order.
So we have plenty of time to contemplate the menu over our icy drinks. The martini list includes a collection of whimsical libations labeled martinis. Purists of the form will appreciate the Landmark Martini ($9), which is made with Bombay gin and comes perfectly chilled in a long-stemmed glass with two green olives fat with blue cheese.
The starter list is short but complete. It includes an array of seafood and Asian-influenced tidbits. We opt for the Wild Mushroom Bruschetta ($6), which arrives in what looks like an unimpressive jumble on the plate. The toast rounds look too spare to be tasty. But the looks are deceiving – this is a pleasing appetizer. An herbed cream cheese covers the toasted baguette, and earthy sautéed mushrooms dot the cheese.
I also like the Ahi Poke Salad ($9). The marinated Hawaiian fish salad is served stacked in an untidy heap of big succulent cubes of raw ahi tossed with sesame- and soy-based dressing.
A far more ordinary – but just as satisfying – way to start a meal is with the Iceberg Wedge Salad ($7). Could there be a more blatant disregard for the micro green and frisée crowd? I say leave them home, as this is a pretty terrific version of this simple back-to-the-’50s combination. Two wedges of tender hearts of iceberg are fully covered in a tangy Gorgonzola dressing and topped with chewy blocks of fried pancetta.
Spinach Salad ($6) is a touch lighter. The tender leaves are coated in a sweet and savory roasted-onion vinaigrette and tossed with crumbles of Maytag Blue Cheese and crushed apple-smoked bacon.
At this point the serving pace picks up, and our dinners arrive before the plates from the first course have been cleared.
From the entree section of the menu, offerings include Pork Chops ($22) – two thick and moist chops topped with a homey parsnip apple hash and a mélange of vegetables.
There is an outstanding Bone-in Rib-eye ($30). This 22-ounce slab of well-marbled beef covers the plate. The steak is teamed with roast-garlic mashed potatoes and steamed seasonal vegetables.
New Zealand Lamb Chops ($28) are also lovely. The long skinny bones lean together like a tent over surprising polenta cakes and a savory porcini mushroom sauce.
Seafood is a small portion of the menu but not necessarily a section that should be missed. Exhibit “A” is the Macadamia Nut Halibut ($28). A flaky, white filet of the mellow Pacific fish is lightly coated in the luxury nut and comes with crisp grilled asparagus and a mound of coconut sticky rice.
This steakhouse is a standout for its sides alone. Not only are they, for the most part, well executed, but they are included with the entree, quite a difference from the average high-end steakhouse that offers pricey meat options with potatoes and vegetables as costly extras.
The wine list includes a very interesting MacRostie Pinot Noir ($42). This Carneros wine is a rich, satisfying red. Desserts should be ordered early, as the Lava Cake ($8) and Grand Marnier Chocolate Soufflé ($8) both require a 20-minute wait. Each is a fine, rich version of the type. For those who like a gooey center, the lava cake, spiked here with Chambord, is an oozy winner. The soufflé, in comparison, is a little too dry and flat. Summer Berry Crisp ($6) is my favorite sweet ending: The tart mix of berries and buttery crumble top are a not-too-sweet finish.
As we leave, the restaurant is packed. The crowd is apparently mostly young and single and seems to be there more for the scene than the food.
And that’s a shame. Because this is one blockbuster that could be taken seriously, if it weren’t so much fun.
Contact the writer: Fax: (714) 796-5052
